I met Helen, a Hollywood makeup artist and skincare expert, at a pop-up. She was there showcasing her skincare line, Finlay + Green, aimed at women going through menopause and yes, her skin looked amazing. In this line of work I’ve covered plenty of brands touting this and that, but one from a skincare expert who understands women and hormonal changes? Let’s go…
Q: For women over 40, is there a key ingredient we should look for in our beauty products?
A: There’s more than one. Look for products containing hyaluronic acid, plant-based squalane, ceramides, peptides, and niacinamide.
These ingredients not only hydrate and moisturize, but also aid in locking in and retaining moisture, protecting the skin barrier, and promoting smoothness and brightness.
Hyaluronic acid attracts moisture from the environment and seals it in.
Plant-based squalane deeply nourishes the skin without clogging pores.
Ceramides strengthen the skin’s protective barrier, regulating hydration levels.
Niacinamide effectively treats dark spots and inflammation, while also boosting hydration, brightening, and promoting smoother skin.
However, finding products with these powerhouse ingredients at effective levels can be challenging. Many brands market their products with these ingredients, but often at insufficient levels to make a difference. Essentially, it’s marketing hype where the consumer gets ripped off. So, I would say, it’s important to start with brands you trust.
Q: What are the biggest mistakes you see women making in terms of makeup and skincare as they age?
A: I do feel that people overuse harsh active ingredients. It’s not their fault, it’s the cosmetic industry that pressures women to look a certain way and to use certain products, including those with harsh actives claiming great anti-aging benefits. However, a lot of these ingredients aren’t necessarily safe for all skin types or for over-the-counter use and should be used with caution due to the high risk of misuse. In short, you could be doing more damage than good.
For example, glycolic or salicylic acids used for exfoliation are notoriously tricky to use correctly.
Over-the-counter retinol cosmetic products, often hailed as the gold standard in anti-aging, carry a significant risk of misuse and are not suitable for everyone. Retinol products render the skin hypersensitive to UV rays and other environmental aggressors such as pollution and cigarette smoke, potentially exacerbating damage to the skin barrier and yielding unintended consequences such as the inability to retain moisture, or sun damage.
There’s a growing number of experts who believe that the long-term risks of retinol could outweigh the benefits and that these products should only be used under the care of your doctor.
The European Union has even gone so far as to limit the maximum concentration of retinol in over-the-counter products for fear of over-exposure to vitamin A. Furthermore, there is very little clinical evidence supporting the efficacy of these over-the-counter retinol products.
Q: How should our makeup and skincare routine shift when we hit menopause?
A: I believe in adopting a gentler and more simplified skincare system. Gentle products don’t have to mean less effective. Seek out products tailored to this phase of your life to ensure your skin gets the proper care it needs. Less truly is more, after all, there is a limit to what the skin can absorb, so do away with ten-step systems. These routines only increase the risk of skin irritation and damage.
Using fewer products ensures a better chance of absorption and effectiveness. Plus, what people don’t realize is that certain ingredients and products cancel each other out so much of the time you are just wasting your time and money. Consistently using the correct products is essential. Start your day and end your night with a well-rounded routine of cleansing, moisturizing, and protection.
“Less is truly more... certain ingredients and products cancel each other out so much of the time you are just wasting your time and money. ”
“Over-the-counter retinol cosmetic products, often hailed as the gold standard in anti-aging, carry a significant risk of misuse ... There’s a growing number of experts who believe that the long-term risks of retinol could outweigh the benefits”
“Matte products accentuate those little imperfections we may wish to hide, plus they flatten out our features when we should be accentuating them. ”
Q: If our makeup isn’t working for us like it used to, where should we start in switching things up?
A: A few suggestions -
Although not a cream foundation, Giorgio Armani’s Luminous Silk comes in lots of color options and gives light to medium coverage, but is buildable for when you wish to have a more ‘done’ look.
For a cream stick foundation, I like Westman Atelier, but as with all cream sticks you need to apply it straight after moisturizing so it’s easier to blend.
Cream eyeshadow sticks such as those by Bobbi Brown are great as they come in a myriad of color options and are so easy to use, but be sure not to choose the matte colors.
I particularly love Burt’s Bee’s All Aglow Lip & Cheek Stick for a pop of natural color on the cheeks with a slightly dewy finish.
RMS’s Buriti Bronzer not only gives an authentically natural sun-kissed effortless glow, but it also nourishes the skin.
Victoria Beckham’s Contour Stylus slim sticks are a fool-proof way to apply contour for both pros and novices alike (watch Victoria’s great how-to video) to accentuate your cheekbones.
Expert Advice for Women Over 40
Helen’s 5 tips + product suggestions
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1: Make sure your skin is “well-prepared”
By that, I mean clean, well-hydrated and well-nourished. This is the foundation for a great makeup look. Just like with my skincare products, I look for buildable makeup. That way you can control how natural or heavy-looking you wish your makeup to be.
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2: Reconsider the makeup you wear around your eyes
I’ve personally reduced the amount of makeup I wear, certainly when it comes to my eyes. Since menopause my eyelids have started to droop, so darker eyeshadows no longer work and, neither does eyeliner on my lower lash line. But because I absolutely love eyeliner, I’m always on a constant mission to find the perfect one.
So far, I’m loving Rumi’s LushLine+; it’s waterproof and smudges far less than anything else I’ve found. I am also addicted to black mascara on both top and bottom lashes, so won’t go anywhere without Trish McEvoy’s Lash Curling tubular mascara which does not smudge ever! Plus it just washes off with water.
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3: Always define both your eyebrows and lips
Use a pencil or powder matching your brow hairs and fill in your brows with a light touch to avoid that ‘drawn on’ look.
I personally love Senna’s Lip Liner pencils as they come in a variety of lovely neutral shades. If you find your lip color bleeds/feathers then try Dior’s Universal Contour lip liner. It’s completely clear and applies effortlessly without dragging. It can also be used all over the lip to add grip to hold those reds. A cheaper option is Kiko Milano’s Invisible lip liner which works and gets the job done far cheaper!
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4: Work around those fine lines
To help diffuse those pesky fine lines around my eyes I use a little smudge of RMS’s Luminizer over them and a little dab on the tops of my cheekbones.
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5: Use Cream Products vs Matte
Cream products with a hint of luster/a soft sheen are best. Not only do these products reflect light and therefore diffuse and diminish the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, but they also help give the skin a healthy-looking glow.
Matte products accentuate those little imperfections we may wish to hide, plus they flatten out our features when we should be accentuating them. An additional benefit of cream cosmetics is that it’s easier to maintain your makeup look during those hot flashes. All you have to do is gently dab your face with a Kleenex, whereas powder products are more likely to streak and be harder to patch.